A Kiwi in Iran: a different kind of green
Home » Blog » Ali Shariat » A Kiwi in Iran: a different kind of greenOn a six-month UN Development Program internship in Tehran, Ali Shariat writes for us about the journey back to the land of his birth.
Green is the symbolic colour of Islam. Green is also one of the three national colours of Iran. Most recently, green is the colour of the controversial reformist movement that has been contesting the 2009 Iranian elections. However, since arriving here, for me green has come to represent my freshness to my new environment. In some ways, although it feels strange to admit it, I am now what might be called a Kiwi FOB.
Photo by Ali Shariat
Although I am Iranian born, my family moved to New Zealand when I was very young. It is New Zealand that I know and am familiar with. Prior to leaving my position at a downtown law firm in Auckland, I would look out the highrise window across the glistening Waitamata Harbour and mighty Rangitoto Island. I would watch the yachts lazily sail across the water, see the quiet cafes in the city and Devonport, and the countless parks scattered across the suburbs. This really is God’s playground.
I gave that up to start an internship at the United Nations Development Program (UNDP) in Iran. This is a great opportunity that will have me posted in Tehran, Iran’s capital, for the next six months.
It's an interesting time to be heading to Iran with the UN—on just my second day at work, the UN building was surrounded by Iranian security and riot forces as there was an anti-UN demonstration outside our offies.
Iran is in a politically tense situation, both domestically and internationally. The Green Movement has brought the greatest series of political demonstrations since Iran’s 1979 revolution. Iran’s nuclear energy program is also a matter of intense international debate. The US, through the UN Security Council, is currently taking moves to impose a further series of sanctions on Iran for this very reason.
My new city is a metropolis of almost 18 million people. In contrast to Auckland’s harbours, Tehran is at the foot of the enormous Albroz Mountain range, in the shadow of the mighty Mount Damavand. Tehran’s busy streets are brimming with people and cars driving in all directions. Its expansive series of expressways link every part of the city, and a very modern metro system provides fast-moving public transport. I quickly get lost in its streets and have to summon all my wit to convince taxi drivers that I am a local and completely aware of where they are going so I don’t get ripped off.
And the unfamiliarity does not end with getting around. The vast majority of Iranian commerce is conducted by small to medium-sized businesses. There are no Foodstuffs and Progressives here. Most food stores are local, family-owned businesses. The majority of people still buy their meat from the butcher, bread from the baker, fruit from their grocer, basics from their general store and sweets from their local confectionary distributor.
Although I know more about Iranian history and traditions that most Iranians in Iran, I am in many ways an alien to my new world's rules, nuances and taboos. Simply opening a bank account and activating the SIM card for my phone was a massive challenge. I now have even more respect for the fortitude of my parents and other migrants who have left their homeland to settle in a totally new country and culture; at least I was raised as an Iranian!
Despite this 'green-ness', there are things that are making settling in relatively easier. I am fluent in Farsi (the language of the people of Persia) and can also (just!) read and write our language. There is the network of people back in New Zealand who have helped me get this far and continue to provide encouragement. I also have my family here and my UN colleagues have been invaluable in providing support and guidance. And lastly, despite their initial gruff exterior, there is the warm hospitality of the people of Iran who have (unknowingly) welcomed me back to my first home.
With all this unfamiliarity and freshness, I am reminded of the old adage: 'In order to discover new oceans, you have to be wiling to lose sight of the shore.' Thanks for joining me for the first part of this journey. I look forward to the next six months. Let the adventure begin!
Thu May 20, 2010 @ 08:18 AM
