If this is 2010, let it take its sweet time
Home » Blog » Craig Neilson » If this is 2010, let it take its sweet timeThe final chapter in Craig's cycle-powered rediscovery of the summer-time North Island. From volcanoes to protests to dancefloors, feasts and beaches ... he had a good time
Hauturu Island Whangamata by Kiwinz via Flickr
Six weeks cycling on the road, or something like that, have shown me the North Island of New Zealand in a completely new light. At once enormous and tiny, Te Ika-a-MÄui is a fascinatingly diverse land. I knew on some intellectual level that we had snow-capped mountains, white-sand beaches, dense native forests, vast planted pines, rolling plains and native bats. Now I've seen that stuff from a bicycle seat.
I've had a puncture (just one!), three surprise support-crews, countless supportive beeps, one near-miss and unfailingly respectful appreciation of the challenge everywhere I've been. I've lost weight, toughened up and gained shape. I guess eight hours of exercise per day will do that to you.
Climate Camp
I went to New Zealand's first Camp for Climate Action in December 2009. It's exactly what it says on the tin: activists from around the country gather to spend several days camping in a beautiful but practical spot to discuss: where to from here? A community emerges—fast—and a day of action is planned for its last day together. As expertise and energy are shared, an attitude becomes visible, conflict falls away and it's a very empowering experience.
The camp achieved its media objectives, lost no money, and upskilled a team of motivated change-makers. That's impressive.
I left central Wellington for a Porirua stop-over in the early afternoon, and rode to Palmerston North the next day. There's a lot of flat land here, which means fast but boring cycling. Palmy itself is a university town with a killer library, bike lanes and more eateries per head than anywhere else in the country. You want friends here, there's plenty to do when you're not by yourself. I caught up on my emails.
Amazingly, the Thai restaurant in Taihape is not called Thai Happy. There's a business opportunity here! As Christmas Day began I left it for a 160km dash to Acacia Bay in Taupo. I was prepared. I'd checked the winds. I had a plan. And I did it.
The Desert Road is some of the most satisfying cycling I've ever done. It's wild and exposed, empty of townships but thriving with military, recreational and natural business. The mountains loom like giant kings, the weather dances in the sky and the messy tussocks grant views over rolling hills for miles in all directions. There are a lot of natural features I'd never noticed in a car, bus or train. In the dangerous winding northern section, I met some friends for a breather, a food and drink top-up, and some human contact. This was a very good idea, and if you're going to attempt a 150km-plus journey, a check-in with familiar faces comes highly recommended from me.
At the end of the northern ride I was presented with the splendid and welcoming shores of Lake Taupo. Summer riders: this is a good time for a swim. But you're still many hours from Taupo town—don't get too excited.
I spent a little bit of time at the Tauhara Center's terrific Chrissyfest, then journeyed north-east to the Prana eco-retreat's Blue Moon New Year's festival. I know where I'll be next year! Prana was a faultless five days of workshops, music, beaches and crikey, the best people I could have possibly met (I swear I'm not the only one saying that).
Now home, I've successfully taken my bicycle from Wellington to Auckland. Total distance: 800km, longest day, Prana-Auckland (200km). I'm in an armchair and playing music, planning tonight's car ride to the national park where I'll hike the Tongariro Crossing and next week's trek around Lake Waikaremoana. The summer outdoors is hard to beat in this country, and I'm not letting 2010 get away on me.
I'll never chronicle the growth I've had from this journey, or maybe even understand it. All I can do is recommend it: cycle-touring can be challenging, exciting, slow, fast, dynamic. I was never once lonely, never waved down traffic, never had an obstacle I didn't know how to overcome.
Maybe we'll see each other on the road.
